Aberdaron to Porth Neigwl (13 miles)

This was the first we have done using the Bws Fflecsi. Getting it booked in the first place had given us difficulty, only resolved after several phone calls. However, actually using the service was a much better experience, even giving us the chance to talk with fellow walkers on the way.

At Aberdaron we started at Y Gegin Fawr, where 14th century pilgrims had stopped for victuals on their way to Ynys Enlli. Today was a simple coffee and cake (and despite online information otherwise, they are now open, following a brief closure period).

Ynys Enlli (Bardsey) was not in view at first, then came and went as we ascended the next headland and turned it. We got a bit lost above Porth Ysgo. We knew we had to turn inland but couldn't find where, despite reading out guidebook and following signs on the ground. The latter were few and far between when it mattered, and one seemed to have been turned round. After realising we had gone wrong, we had to double back before finding the right way (mileage included in the total above).

We had our picnic on the way, but still needed to stop for ice cream at Plas yn Rhiw. 

After reading about the long trek along an inhospitable beach, we decided not to do that 'alternative route', but instead to follow the official path inland. That proved a bad decision: after passing the ruin of Cae'r Ychain, the path was hard to find, even with book (descriptions out of date) and signs (not there). The online OS app together with very close reading of directions eventually got us there, after several times having to ask ourselves was this unworn grass REALLY the path? We also had to tackle a herd of over-curious cattle.

After last week's heatwave we had lower temperatures and a stiff breeze. It was very much a day for long trousers and long sleeves: the trousers to allow for nettles and horse on narrow paths, and both to guard against the horseflies