Wales Coast Path 2024

  Logistics is simpler now that we are on a railway line again. We took the 11.04 train from Cricieth after a quick coffee at No 46 .  After leaving Pwllheli harbour there's a long slog along a sandy beach, where the walking involved either soft sand or soft small shingle, either of which just pushes away underfoot. The guide book raised our hopes, promising a harder path behind the dunes after Abererch, but this proved very short-lived and were were soon back on the beach, albeit slightly firmer. Signage was poor, and we had to work out carefully where and how to rise off that beach to the point at Penychain. Here there were excellent views looking over to Harlech and the Meirionnydd coast, with just a hint of Ceredigion and Pembrokeshire beyond. We looked around for a bench or somewhere to sit down for our lunch, which took some time: we were past most of the Haven site when we sat down. After Afon Wen, walking along the cycle path alongside the A497 was a little dull, but a...

This was a third consecutive day of walking, which we had planned and booked ahead when we couldn't be sure of the weather. As it turned out the first two days were fine but the forecast for today was for thundery showers. We decided to soldier on anyway. It was dry enough when we set off from Abersoch along the beach, and below the chalet estate known as the Warren. As we approached the end of that beach, what had been just a few drops turned to a continuous drizzle, which carried on as we climbed the steep steps of Mynydd Tir-y-cwmwd. What should have been fine views from the top were mostly gloomy mist. Going down the other side was harder, the rain having made steep steps slippery as well. We stopped at Oriel Plas Glyn y Weddw for lunch, and looked around the gallery as well until we thought the rain had eased off enough. And it had.  It brightened up as we carried on along a straightforward stretch near the coast and at sea level to Pwllheli. Three days' walking in a row h...

We were staying in Abersoch (at The Wylfa ) so this was a second consecutive day. We breakfasted at Zinc before taking the Bws Fflecsi to last night's destination. There were to be no cafes until nearly the end, so we had bought provisions in Abersoch before leaving. Coffee and biscuits were had above Trwyn Carreg y Tir, then a lunch break at today's only bench at Porth Ceiriad. We still needed a quick drink at Mickey's Beach Cafe when we got there. This was in the event a straightforward and uneventful walk. We finished off in the evening with a fishy meal at The Potted Lobster.

This was the first we have done using the Bws Fflecsi.  Getting it booked in the first place had given us difficulty, only resolved after several phone calls. However, actually using the service was a much better experience, even giving us the chance to talk with fellow walkers on the way. At Aberdaron we started at Y Gegin Fawr, where 14th century pilgrims had stopped for victuals on their way to Ynys Enlli. Today was a simple coffee and cake (and despite online information otherwise, they are now open, following a brief closure period). Ynys Enlli (Bardsey) was not in view at first, then came and went as we ascended the next headland and turned it. We got a bit lost above Porth Ysgo. We knew we had to turn inland but couldn't find where, despite reading out guidebook and following signs on the ground. The latter were few and far between when it mattered, and one seemed to have been turned round. After realising we had gone wrong, we had to double back before finding the right way...

The shape of the coast here means it was fairly straightforward to do a circular walk where nearly all of it was along the Wales Coast Path. So we started at Aberdaron and walked along quiet country roads past Gwythrian to Porthoer. We stopped just above the beach at a convenient picnic table for our coffee break. We had again chosen a fine weather day, blue skies everywhere, but breezy. It helped that this was blowing us towards the land when we were walking along steep cliffsides, at least while we remained on the north coast. It became a little more sheltered as we turned. Picnic lunch was at Porth Llanllawen which energised us for the ascent of Mynydd Mawr,  another refreshment break. A very clear view there of Ynys Enlli / Bardsey Island. At this point, Anglesey remained just in view and we could look inland towards peaks of Eryri. The hills continued southwards giving us Meirionydd, and then we could see a far-off coast stretch round the horizon, which must have been Ceredigi...

Today's walk had reference to a recent newspaper article extolling the path and its cafes. Logistics dictated this was to be another two-car walk. After the essential car transfer, we had a coffee at Cwt Tatws before setting off on foot. The first leg had until recently been closed, with a diversion in place, because of severe mud. It has been open for a few days now (we had checked) and it was passable enough after a week of dry weather - but we could see how this part of the path could become fairly awful after a bit of rain. At Traeth Penllech, our book had told us that the path diverted along roads inland because of a landslip below the cliff. When we got there, it became clear that the path has been reinstated along the clifftop (we could see a bit of the slipped portion) so we didn't need to divert there. We stopped at the Moel-y-Berth Coastal Cafe , where we were warned of the next diversion that was  in place. Again, having checked path status before we set off, we kn...