Tydweiliog to Porthoer (11 miles)

Today's walk had reference to a recent newspaper article extolling the path and its cafes.

Logistics dictated this was to be another two-car walk. After the essential car transfer, we had a coffee at Cwt Tatws before setting off on foot. The first leg had until recently been closed, with a diversion in place, because of severe mud. It has been open for a few days now (we had checked) and it was passable enough after a week of dry weather - but we could see how this part of the path could become fairly awful after a bit of rain.

At Traeth Penllech, our book had told us that the path diverted along roads inland because of a landslip below the cliff. When we got there, it became clear that the path has been reinstated along the clifftop (we could see a bit of the slipped portion) so we didn't need to divert there. We stopped at the Moel-y-Berth Coastal Cafe, where we were warned of the next diversion that was in place. Again, having checked path status before we set off, we knew about this, but it was good of them to warn us. That took us along minor road before rejoining the actual coast at Porth Widlin.

This next stretch is mostly along the tops and sides of muddy cliffs, frequently intersected by streams in narrow ravines, some bridged, others where we walked down and up again. Here and there we saw signs of slumping down towards the sea, including at one point of a line of turf carrying the path.

It was a day for wild flowers of all sorts. Thrift, Primroses, Spring Squill and more Three-cornered Leek were everywhere; Cow Parsley has opened out since our last walk, and we saw one or two Early Purple Orchids.

We got to Porthor, or Whistling Sands, and took the route along the beach. And, yes, the sand does whistle, or at least squeak underfoot, where it is dry - not on every footstep, but still noticeable enough. We stopped at the last cafe too!  

Today's walk underlined how fragile this coast is, with a frequent need for path changes when the coast is eroded. It seem the path authorities manage to keep abreast of this but it must be a continual task - and the walker needs to be careful. 

  


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