Porth Amlwch to Cemaes (9 miles)
We parked at Cemaes and took the bus to Amlwch, the short walk to Amlwch Port adding to our mileage total. We were hoping to stop at Skye's Creperie (no link found), having been favourably impressed last time, but it was closed for just one day for some electrical work, so we set off. Fairly immediately, we found a discrepancy between our guide book and the walk on the ground. The guide book, and also my the Ordnance Survey map, suggest that there is a cul-de-sac diversion along the port side, but you would have to turn back and continue the path across the playing field. It wasn't signposted that way at all, but nevertheless we followed the guide book version, still a path, but not signposted as the Coast Path. After a while, the signed coast path rejoined this route. It looks as though the path management have now found a way through from that cul-de-sec to join the main route of the path westwards, and our guide book, published only in 2024, is now out of date.There was rich vegetation and wildlife here: creeping willow and spring squill, both drawing our attention only because they were in flower. We were also accompanied by stonechat along the way.
Once we got to Porth Llechog/Bull Bay, we were in need of that coffee that we had missed having at Skye's, and we stopped at the Trecastell. They weren't properly open before 12 noon, but were happy to serve us a coffee. We chatted to a chap from the Netherlands who had walked the path from Cardigan and planned to continue to Chester.
We stopped for our picnic lunch on the eastern side of Porth Wen. The best view of the bay, and its brickworks which have become a "destination" in recent years, is from this far side. Clearly the brickworks are continue to be popular since becoming a target for Instagram people. There were groups of people there, and once we had passed, it became clear that walkers coming towards us were mostly (if not exclusively) coming along with that destination in mind. Before we did this today, we knew that the stretch between Porth Wen and Cemaes is the most challenging part of the Anglesey path, principally because of the steep descents and ascents at Porth Cynfor and Port Llanlleina. It is also the most rewarding!
Since joining the northern coast of Anlesey, we have been hoping for two things which we know should be possible here - to see the Isle of Man, and to spot some marine mammals. It's been too hazy so far for the Isle, although mobile phone signals have managed to make a connection. But today we both managed to see the submerging back of what was probably a seal.
We visited the church at Llanbadrig as we passed and finished with an ice cream at Cwt Pizza.
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