Colwyn Bay to Llandudno West Shore (12 miles)

 

 

Starting again where we last left off, in this case at Colwyn Bay's silly little pier. The last one had to be dismantled because it was falling down and dangerous, but it was a listed building so something had to be done. This is all they could afford, quite possibly cobbled together from bits of the old one, but it's not nearly as grand.

Although it is still only March, it was sunny, so we had our first ice cream of the walk, on the promenade here from  Parisella's on the beach. Then it was onwards again along the sea front, stopping briefly to inspect St Trillo's church at Llandrillo-yn-Rhos (aka Rhos-on-Sea). Conversation once again turned to sea defences, especially as we passed the golf club on our left whwich seemed in places to be lower than the beach.

Our guide books have too many suggested alternative routes and diversions, when we are trying to focus on completing the path. But as we approached  the Little Orme, there was one small diversion which was well worth taking. Just before the path climbs to the left up the headland, it's worth carrying straight on for a view of Angel Bay: because this is a haven for seals. There were dozens lolling around on the beach, all shades and sizes, including some pups. We could hear them barking. It was obviously a popular destination for local walkers, too.

All the way from Chester we have been walking close to the sea, a dead level much of the time, with just the occasional gradient to a slightly higher sea wall, or low cliffs. At the Little Orme, the path really needs to climb over the limestone headland. This starts with what once once a quarry incline. The steep but even gradient was a strong clue, and any doubt removed by the remains of winding gear at the top. We carried on upwards,  seeing the last of the view eastwards, the route we had come. At the summit the vista opened out southwards, and as we descended on the other side we started to see the very different view into Llandudno bay and towards the Great Orme. Looking back, we could see that the Little Orme deserves its original name of Trwyn y Fuwch (cow's nose). 

A walk along Llandudno promenade (level once more) was followed by lunch at Botanical Babe in Mostyn Street, a curious mix of coffee shop and indoor plant shop. It's not quite on the path, but really not far off, and somewhere I had wanted to visit.

The walk then approaches the Great Orme, quite a contrast to its predecessor. Whereas on the Little Orme we had walked on muddy paths over the top, here we were walking along the tarmac pavement of Marine Drive, and more walking round the outer cliffs - although again there was considerable height gain, just slower and a little gentler. And here again we were treated again to a cove full of barking seals.  

Eventually, as the views began to open out towards Anglesey, we arrived at the well-named Rest and Be Thankful cafe, and had another short break. From here onwards, it was a gradual descent towards Llandudno's west shore. Our careful public transport planning meant that we took a bus back from here, and it arrived at the stop just as we did.